Argentina is one of my favourite countries in Latin America, so I was delighted when offered the opportunity to explore a new area for me in Salta and the high altitude terrain of the north-west, in particular an area known as ‘The Puna’.
The Puna is still relatively undiscovered, and this adds to the appeal and other-worldly aspect of the area. Travel by 4WD with an experienced guide is absolutely essential, and it is also very important to be well prepared as the terrain is very rugged and all of the Puna is at altitudes of more than 3,000m above sea level.
After a night at the very comfortable and welcoming Finca Valentina, just outside of Salta, we set off through the Rio Toro Gorge, admiring towering Cardón Grande cacti. After the town of San Antonio de los Cobres, the tarmac disappeared for gravel tracks and the start of some unforgettable scenery.
The landscape of The Puna was formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, and over the next few days we explored massive volcanic craters, huge salt flats and spectacular sites like the Cono de Arita, Campo de Piedra Pómez, a pomace field shaped by the wind and El Desierto del Diablo, a vast area of deep red mars-like soil.
A particular highlight was ascending to the abandoned Mina Julia at 5,230m for incredible views into Chile, it is amazing to think there was once an active sulphur mine at this altitude. We then enjoyed a picnic lunch at the abandoned town of La Casualidad, where the miners used to live.
Travel in this area is for the adventurous, with long days in the truck over some very bumpy terrain. Accommodation is also quite basic, although Hosteria El Peñón made a good base for two nights while we explored the south of the Puna.
However, with very few other travellers in the area (we would see 3 or 4 trucks most days), the rewards far outweigh the discomforts and you will also be rewarded with some amazing photo opportunities. I almost ran out of room on my camera!
To return to Salta, we descended from the Puna into the high-altitude vineyards around Cafayate, followed by a spectacular drive through the Calchaquí Valleys and via the historic colonial town of Cachi. This is a beautiful part of the country and it is well worth spending a few days here as well.
All travel that we arrange through the Puna is in private 4WD with an experienced guide. Please contact us if you are interested in organising a tour.
